The swell season

Summer here finished with a violent thunderstorm, like the world cracked open as Autumn was born. Surfing wise, I love all the seasons (okay, maybe not Spring so much – the winds drive me berko). Each is unique, and has its own rhythms, but I always feel like Autumn gives the golden moments. I busted the plugs on my Vampirate board (Rainbow 5’8, for the surfers out there – should have

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Go Jess

I surf with this girl (in the clip, wearing the beanie). Jess is a beautiful person and amazing surfer, and my tiny mind was blown into even tinier bits when I just-by-chance checked out the clip for one of my favourite songs and there she be! And Palmie – loved seeing it looking so broodingly gothic, like it might eat Braxtons and spit out their bones. Nice

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surfing & the sea

Southeasterly secrets

Today I surfed with Jake, Esquiy, and Vaughn. I knew they’d be out there, because like me they go out in any old dross, and I see them more regularly than I see my best friend. Or, as Jake put it: We’ve all got this small thing called a surfing addiction that sort of runs your whole life. The sky felt like it was lower than

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“…the whooping, hollering enthusiasm of surfers for whom surfing is a pleasure, not a right.”

Great article by Phil Jarrett on Swellnet: In Praise of Westies Oddly, where I live/surf, I think it’s been easier for me (a central Qld native – someone from 1,400 kms away) than the guys who’ve “grown up in Cromer” (5 mins away). Which is kind of hilarious. It’s because I don’t give a shit. There is nothing better than dismantling someone’s expectation that you’re trying to belong.

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surfing & the sea

Surf joy

I’m about to go for a surf on what’s possibly the flattest day we’ve had for weeks and I wanted to share this with you. Why? It’ll make you smile. You get to look at a naked man. And Kepa Acero in this video is the embodiment of

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Respect to this guy

For many reasons – but in particular for what he has to say about the whole Nazare big wave surfing load-of-sexist-shit. And also, incidentally, because he’s sitting in front of a FINE collection of books as he says it (Joyce Carol Oates watching over his left shoulder).

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Things I have loved so much this week that I need to share them in case they are magic for you too include:  

1. Aurora. Just generally. Full stop necessary. But also Aurora talking about her new book shelf… https://t.co/05bhHmBVld

Me and my friend Em this morning. She was racing down the line to run me over. ⁣

In all seriousness I am glad you were around today to run me over emmalincolnsmith Would be lost without you mate 🖤Glad creative… https://t.co/I19vA471cN

This show killed me. I came to Phoebe Waller Bridge via Season 1 of Killing Eve (🖤) and then Crashing (🖤) but Fleabag finished me off. First ep, I thought it was clever. By the third she’d got me in the guts. The… https://t.co/sjHJ44X6cT

Nick and me and Screen NSW giving us the THUMBS UP, BABY! We just got development funding for rawbluethefilm - We are so happy and can’t believe it really, because with film production presently at a standstill,… https://t.co/giv4sLqBds

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