Summer here finished with a violent thunderstorm, like the world cracked open as Autumn was born. Surfing wise, I love all the seasons (okay, maybe not Spring so much – the winds drive me berko). Each is unique, and has its own rhythms, but I always feel like Autumn gives the golden moments. I busted the plugs on my Vampirate board (Rainbow 5’8, for the surfers out there – should have
I surf with this girl (in the clip, wearing the beanie). Jess is a beautiful person and amazing surfer, and my tiny mind was blown into even tinier bits when I just-by-chance checked out the clip for one of my favourite songs and there she be! And Palmie – loved seeing it looking so broodingly gothic, like it might eat Braxtons and spit out their bones. Nice
Today I surfed with Jake, Esquiy, and Vaughn. I knew they’d be out there, because like me they go out in any old dross, and I see them more regularly than I see my best friend. Or, as Jake put it: We’ve all got this small thing called a surfing addiction that sort of runs your whole life. The sky felt like it was lower than
Great article by Phil Jarrett on Swellnet: In Praise of Westies Oddly, where I live/surf, I think it’s been easier for me (a central Qld native – someone from 1,400 kms away) than the guys who’ve “grown up in Cromer” (5 mins away). Which is kind of hilarious. It’s because I don’t give a shit. There is nothing better than dismantling someone’s expectation that you’re trying to belong.
For many reasons – but in particular for what he has to say about the whole Nazare big wave surfing load-of-sexist-shit. And also, incidentally, because he’s sitting in front of a FINE collection of books as he says it (Joyce Carol Oates watching over his left shoulder).
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