Summer here finished with a violent thunderstorm, like the world cracked open as Autumn was born. Surfing wise, I love all the seasons (okay, maybe not Spring so much – the winds drive me berko). Each is unique, and has its own rhythms, but I always feel like Autumn gives the golden moments. I busted the plugs on my Vampirate board (Rainbow 5’8, for the surfers out there – should have
I surf with this girl (in the clip, wearing the beanie). Jess is a beautiful person and amazing surfer, and my tiny mind was blown into even tinier bits when I just-by-chance checked out the clip for one of my favourite songs and there she be! And Palmie – loved seeing it looking so broodingly gothic, like it might eat Braxtons and spit out their bones. Nice
Today I surfed with Jake, Esquiy, and Vaughn. I knew they’d be out there, because like me they go out in any old dross, and I see them more regularly than I see my best friend. Or, as Jake put it: We’ve all got this small thing called a surfing addiction that sort of runs your whole life. The sky felt like it was lower than
Great article by Phil Jarrett on Swellnet: In Praise of Westies Oddly, where I live/surf, I think it’s been easier for me (a central Qld native – someone from 1,400 kms away) than the guys who’ve “grown up in Cromer” (5 mins away). Which is kind of hilarious. It’s because I don’t give a shit. There is nothing better than dismantling someone’s expectation that you’re trying to belong.
… nothing good comes from surfing in a southeaster. Just weird shit.
I’m about to go for a surf on what’s possibly the flattest day we’ve had for weeks and I wanted to share this with you. Why? It’ll make you smile. You get to look at a naked man. And Kepa Acero in this video is the embodiment of
For many reasons – but in particular for what he has to say about the whole Nazare big wave surfing load-of-sexist-shit. And also, incidentally, because he’s sitting in front of a FINE collection of books as he says it (Joyce Carol Oates watching over his left shoulder).
You can unsubscribe at any time. Mailchimp is our platform. To read their privacy policy, please click here.
