The swell season

Summer here finished with a violent thunderstorm, like the world cracked open as Autumn was born. Surfing wise, I love all the seasons (okay, maybe not Spring so much – the winds drive me berko). Each is unique, and has its own rhythms, but I always feel like Autumn gives the golden moments. I busted the plugs on my Vampirate board (Rainbow 5’8, for the surfers out there – should have gone the 5’6 but was feeling lazy; I usually ride it as a quad) and rediscovered the joys of rocker thanks to my Psyllakis (5’10 Gypsy). We’ve had a great run of swell, water temps at 23 degrees, an ocean that’s clear and green and veined by reflection, and I’m in love with the world. Everybody down at my local is happy, and I’m in love with them, too, because I sometimes wonder how I’d be without them to laugh with. Keeps it in perspective.

Anyway, some snaps for you (that’s me and Miss 8 doing a bit of underwater exploring above). Hope you’ve had a chance to get outside.

Subtle signs that our local lifeguards are all surfers.
Subtle signs that our local lifeguards are all surfers.

 

Earth laughs in flowers - Emerson
Earth laughs in flowers – Emerson

 

Nothing to be said here.
Didn’t know him but I wish I could have given him a copy of this shot.

 

The same guy ended up in the snow a short while later. Big day.
The same guy ended up in the snow a short while later. Big day.

 

And on a sad note, after years of faithful service, my favourite pair of boardshorts finally fell to bits. They served me well.
And on a sad note, after years of faithful service, my favourite pair of boardshorts fell to bits. Alas poor Roxys, I knew you well.

 

 

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