surfing & the sea

We are all sea drunks at the moment …

Spring has brought a mix of swells after a winter that featured a looooong run of swell from the extreme south. The banks are good. And yesterday was one of those rare days when we all surfed ourselves sick. The sky is a sun-smacked blue. Every blade of grass seems sharply alive. My friend went spearfishing and had a run-in with a bull

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PS There is a GIVEAWAY happening over on my Instagram this weekend! If you are trying to find me, I am @kirstyeagar (people always spell Eagar the normal way – Eager – and then tell me that I am not there – completely understandable, but not true!)

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Summer surf

Has largely been lacklustre! That’s until the last couple of days – we’ve had amazing swell. Here’s a snap of me from Northern Beaches surf photographer Michael Kellerman.

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Autumn 2

View this post on Instagram Water seems to be at its warmest and greenest at this time of year. Love Autumn. Photo credit: The mysterious Mr Eagar #surfing #northernbeaches #secretspot #okaynotthatsecret A post shared by Kirsty Eagar (@kirstyeagar) on Apr 12, 2016 at 11:50pm PDT

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New White Horses piece

View this post on Instagram I've got a short piece on grief (and surfing – yes, I related the two somehow) in the new edition of @whitehorsesmag But more exciting for me was reading writing by this guy – @mugofsunshine and reading about his shaping and experiments in sustainability (actually, come to think of it, I also liked knowing how the name 'Mug

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Perfect morning (part 3)

View this post on Instagram And then (don't worry, this the last one) I made @surfphotosofyou 's daily report, and as we all know that blows my little mind – pop! – because I will always be a shameless frother. Perfect morning :) #surfing #northernbeaches #autumnsurf #surfglass A post shared by Kirsty Eagar (@kirstyeagar) on Apr 4, 2016 at 7:22pm PDT

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Perfect morning (part 2)

View this post on Instagram And then the water was the most perfect Autumn green glass, and it was full of DOLPHINS. This is drone footage captured by @surfphotosofyou – subscribe! If you haven't already – but earlier they were right in amongst us surfers …. #surfing #northernbeaches A post shared by Kirsty Eagar (@kirstyeagar) on Apr 4, 2016 at 7:12pm PDT

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Perfect morning (part 1)

View this post on Instagram Perfect morning. Was feeling springy because I got a new springy (then all my friends pretended they didn't know who I was) … #surfing A post shared by Kirsty Eagar (@kirstyeagar) on Apr 4, 2016 at 7:06pm PDT

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