Spring has brought a mix of swells after a winter that featured a looooong run of swell from the extreme south. The banks are good. And yesterday was one of those rare days when we all surfed ourselves sick. The sky is a sun-smacked blue. Every blade of grass seems sharply alive. My friend went spearfishing and had a run-in with a bull
PS There is a GIVEAWAY happening over on my Instagram this weekend! If you are trying to find me, I am @kirstyeagar (people always spell Eagar the normal way – Eager – and then tell me that I am not there – completely understandable, but not true!)
Has largely been lacklustre! That’s until the last couple of days – we’ve had amazing swell. Here’s a snap of me from Northern Beaches surf photographer Michael Kellerman.
I love this so much. ALBEE LAYER BACKSIDE DOUBLE SPIN from TAKE SHELTER PRODUCTIONS on Vimeo.
I’m putting this up because I really loved it and you might too:
View this post on Instagram Water seems to be at its warmest and greenest at this time of year. Love Autumn. Photo credit: The mysterious Mr Eagar #surfing #northernbeaches #secretspot #okaynotthatsecret A post shared by Kirsty Eagar (@kirstyeagar) on Apr 12, 2016 at 11:50pm PDT
View this post on Instagram I've got a short piece on grief (and surfing – yes, I related the two somehow) in the new edition of @whitehorsesmag But more exciting for me was reading writing by this guy – @mugofsunshine and reading about his shaping and experiments in sustainability (actually, come to think of it, I also liked knowing how the name 'Mug
View this post on Instagram And then (don't worry, this the last one) I made @surfphotosofyou 's daily report, and as we all know that blows my little mind – pop! – because I will always be a shameless frother. Perfect morning :) #surfing #northernbeaches #autumnsurf #surfglass A post shared by Kirsty Eagar (@kirstyeagar) on Apr 4, 2016 at 7:22pm PDT
View this post on Instagram And then the water was the most perfect Autumn green glass, and it was full of DOLPHINS. This is drone footage captured by @surfphotosofyou – subscribe! If you haven't already – but earlier they were right in amongst us surfers …. #surfing #northernbeaches A post shared by Kirsty Eagar (@kirstyeagar) on Apr 4, 2016 at 7:12pm PDT
View this post on Instagram Perfect morning. Was feeling springy because I got a new springy (then all my friends pretended they didn't know who I was) … #surfing A post shared by Kirsty Eagar (@kirstyeagar) on Apr 4, 2016 at 7:06pm PDT
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