We are all sea drunks at the moment …


Spring has brought a mix of swells after a winter that featured a looooong run of swell from the extreme south. The banks are good. And yesterday was one of those rare days when we all surfed ourselves sick. The sky is a sun-smacked blue. Every blade of grass seems sharply alive. My friend went spearfishing and had a run-in with a bull shark and then smashed herself on the rocks trying to get away. I was too calm and then too emotional when she told me because I was glad I don’t have to miss her and I know you can lose people to risk very easily. Also, there’s no point not letting people know they mean something to you. Do it immediately! On the spot! I try to. I am also trying to avoid buying things wrapped in plastic, which seems next to impossible. I am working on a lot of things at once at the moment, but more on that at the end of the month. I hope you are happy-good XO