I’ve just pledged on Pozible to help RealSurf, and if you’re a fan of the website you might want to do the same. (Haven’t seen it before? Check it out. It’s refreshingly uncorporate and runs on the sweat of passionate contributors). For me, it’s been a touchstone for years, and every time I check in and see the header quote from Jack Norris
My husband took this photo. I really like it. I think because it’s how I spend so much of my time – parked in the ocean. Just sitting there on my board, waiting, not thinking about anything much …
1 fairy penguin, 4 dolphins, 12 good waves, followed by 2 croissants and a play in the sand with my 4 year old. 1 good song on the drive home.
Icy west wind, big surf, changing tide – sometimes you have to push yourself out there.
Is now on Facebook. His name is Cody Dawson. Here he is, looking all territorial. Go friend him. (He’s not related to me, b.t.w. We just nod at each other from time to time). Turns out he also has great taste in music. Here’s the pick of his picks for today:
Banks, in this case, referring to the sand formations that cause waves to break – not the institutions; they have governments making sure they don’t disappear. We haven’t had any banks around here for … um … I don’t know, not since some big storm swells gobbled them up weeks ago. Since then, every day’s been a shorebreak party, which was fun for
I suffer from a rare surfing condition called Woodchopper Hands. Exhibit A:
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