Help RealSurf out!

I’ve just pledged on Pozible to help RealSurf, and if you’re a fan of the website you might want to do the same. (Haven’t seen it before? Check it out. It’s refreshingly uncorporate and runs on the sweat of passionate contributors). For me, it’s been a touchstone for years, and every time I check in and see the header quote from Jack Norris

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Breathe it in

My husband took this photo. I really like it. I think because it’s how I spend so much of my time – parked in the ocean. Just sitting there on my board, waiting, not thinking about anything much … 

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Today’s numbers

1 fairy penguin, 4 dolphins, 12 good waves, followed by 2 croissants and a play in the sand with my 4 year old. 1 good song on the drive home.  

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Brrr …

Icy west wind, big surf, changing tide – sometimes you have to push yourself out there.   

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My favourite surf local

Is now on Facebook. His name is Cody Dawson. Here he is, looking all territorial. Go friend him. (He’s not related to me, b.t.w. We just nod at each other from time to time). Turns out he also has great taste in music. Here’s the pick of his picks for today:

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What you do when there are no banks

Banks, in this case, referring to the sand formations that cause waves to break – not the institutions; they have governments making sure they don’t disappear. We haven’t had any banks around here for … um … I don’t know, not since some big storm swells gobbled them up weeks ago. Since then, every day’s been a shorebreak party, which was fun for

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Things I have loved so much this week that I need to share them in case they are magic for you too include:  

1. Aurora. Just generally. Full stop necessary. But also Aurora talking about her new book shelf… https://t.co/05bhHmBVld

Me and my friend Em this morning. She was racing down the line to run me over. ⁣

In all seriousness I am glad you were around today to run me over emmalincolnsmith Would be lost without you mate 🖤Glad creative… https://t.co/I19vA471cN

This show killed me. I came to Phoebe Waller Bridge via Season 1 of Killing Eve (🖤) and then Crashing (🖤) but Fleabag finished me off. First ep, I thought it was clever. By the third she’d got me in the guts. The… https://t.co/sjHJ44X6cT

Nick and me and Screen NSW giving us the THUMBS UP, BABY! We just got development funding for rawbluethefilm - We are so happy and can’t believe it really, because with film production presently at a standstill,… https://t.co/giv4sLqBds

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