For many reasons – but in particular for what he has to say about the whole Nazare big wave surfing load-of-sexist-shit. And also, incidentally, because he’s sitting in front of a FINE collection of books as he says it (Joyce Carol Oates watching over his left shoulder).
Respect to this guy
- Post author:Kirsty
- Post published:November 4, 2013
- Post category:surfing & the sea