Before winter crashes the party…


Let’s take a second to remember the Autumn that was.

Summer’s over, winter’s coming, but right now is the in-between, the change. I’ve always loved this time of year the most, always loved Easter more than Christmas. It’s because of surfing. The swell’s mixed, which means you still get runs of easterly swell, not like winter where it’s usually coming from the south all the time. And there’s not much wind about, or if there is it’s often offshore. The ocean’s still warm but the sand is chilled. The water loses the emerald green of summer and starts to keep secrets, turning a deep, dark sapphire blue.

Most of all I love the light. I love how everything is golden, precious. Some days it makes things so beautiful it hurts.

(From Raw Blue)